The rain finally subsides and reveals an almost prefect African evening. The full moon lights up the savannah and a couple of persistent clouds hover around the bright ball as it casts a silver light on them. In the distance lightning reminds of the storm that passed and has by now moved on to bless other crops and other fields.
We have been in this crowded truck for way too long, and we haven’t stopped since early afternoon. It is after 22h00, we were supposed to arrive at 23h00 but we aren’t even close. For the past ten hours we have been sharing this truck, all five of us and our collective belongings jam-packed in the front with our bike and their cargo at the back. This was supposed to be a quicker and more comfortable option; it turns out to be neither.
We spent the afternoon chatting and playing cards as we drove through the western part of Zambia. When the sun set we became quiet, taking turns to sleep but mostly searching for another comfortable spot to sit in. By midnight even the powerful scene created by the moon was not enough to keep our spirits up and we were stuck somewhere between sleep and Tanzania, neither getting any closer.
By dawn we give up on the myth of comfort and sleep. Our bodies danced along with the motion of the heavy truck as it hits pothole after pothole, some big enough to swallow our bike, whilst we all drowsily hope to see the end of this friendly country soon.
Then, finally there it is – 21 hours after our departure. We stare at the human chaos which is the border and gateway to east Africa and realize that we aren’t even halfway to Dar es Salaam yet.